Lash Lift - How to Re-lift or Reverse
If your client feels that they received a mediocre lift, or you as the stylist are unsatisfied with your end result, there is no need to fret about it, these things happen. There are many factors that can play into an unsuccessful lash lift. This could have been caused due to your shield placement, the lashes not being properly cleansed prior to the treatment, the way the product has been stored, the solution not placed correctly while processing the lashes, and so many other small details that matter when performing a lash lift service. It is imperative as the stylist, to know the proper steps to be taken when fixing your client’s lift if needed.
There are two ways that you can attempt to correct the lashes to the best of your ability without damaging the hairs. You can either reverse the lash lift or re-lift the lashes. Always base your decision on the condition of your client’s lashes post treatment, what your client is most comfortable with, and what will help avoid any long term damage as much as possible.
How To Re-Lift Your Client’s Lashes
Okay, let's say that you have finished lifting your clients lashes and they are not thrilled with the amount of lift they received and you as the stylist feel that their lash hairs could endure another round of processing without causing serious long term damage, you should consider re-lifting the lashes.
The first thing you need to do is try and pinpoint the reason the lashes didn’t fully lift during the initial treatment. A few leading causes of un-lifted lashes can be tied to an incorrect shield or rod size that was used, the improper placement of solutions, or the placement of the shield or rod on that particular client's eye shape.
Now that you have evaluated what could have gone wrong, it is time to start discussing the game plan you have for the client and what you feel would be best when performing a “re-lift” to their lashes. It is best to wait at least 48 hours before re-lifting, by waiting 24-48 hours, you’re allowing the hairs time to reform and secure their bonds. When your client returns after waiting this amount of time, only process the lashes for half the amount of time you processed the hairs for the original treatment. It is crucial to not re-lift with the full processing times until a full lash growth cycle has passed, this typically takes anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks.
How To Reverse a Lash Lift
Over curling the lashes is something that can happen when performing a lash lifting treatment with a shield or rod that is too small for the length of your clients lashes. Luckily, there are steps that you as the stylist can take to help reverse the over-curled lashes.
Before reversing your client’s lash lift, it is important to first assess the lash health to determine if the lashes are in good enough condition to be reversed or relaxed. If the clients' lashes meet your criteria, go ahead and perform the reversal/relaxing service. On the other hand, if your client’s lashes aren’t a good candidate to be reversed, the best thing you can do is to recommend that your client uses castor oil or Brow and Lash Toxx twice a day until their lashes have reached a curl that they feel comfortable with or until their next treatment 6-8 weeks later.
When performing a reversal on a previously done lash lift, the first step you’re going to take is to gently brush through the lashes in a downward motion using a mini mascara wand or spoolie with the Step 1 solution until you have reached the desired curl. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds to a minute. After applying the first solution for the proper amount of time, you will now begin removing any excess Step 1 using a dry applicator or q-tip. Once you feel you have gotten the majority of the first product removed, it is time to perform the same process and timing using Step 2. After you have properly applied and removed the second solution, it is time to apply Step 3 in the same manner as Steps 1 and 2. However, you will NOT remove the Step 3 Moisturizing Solution, you will leave this product on the clients lashes until they are able to cleanse their lashes using water at least 24 hours post treatment.
After you have successfully relaxed or reversed the lashes, you will want to send your client home with a sachet of Step 3 and a spoolie or mascara wand of some sort. Make sure to tell the client this product should be used daily to maintain their overall lash health. For additional moisturizing, you can also recommend Castor Oil or Brow and Lash Toxx to your client!!
