How to Re-Lift Lashes or Reverse a Lash Lift

If your client feels they received a mediocre lift, or you, as the stylist, are unsatisfied with your result, you may need to redo the treatment. Don’t worry, these things happen. 

Many factors can play into an unsuccessful lash lift. Your shield placement, how you cleansed the lashes, how you stored your lash supplies, the placement of the lifting solution, and so many other small details can have a significant impact whenever you perform a lash lift service. It is imperative as the stylist to know the proper steps to take when fixing your client’s lift if needed.

Let’s look at some of the most common lash lift mistakes you can make and what you can do to avoid them. We’ll also cover what you need to know about re-lifting your client’s lashes or reversing their lash lift.

COMMON LASH LIFT MISTAKES AND HOW TO AVOID THEM

One of the biggest draws of a lash lift versus lash extensions is that a lift uses the client’s natural eyelashes. However, a downside to this fact is that missteps during a lash lift can affect the outcome and health of your client's lashes. To avoid this, here are some common mistakes and how to actively prevent them:

• Ignoring client preferences: Take the time to discuss the client's lash lift questions and tailor the procedure accordingly to achieve their desired outcome.
• Skipping patch tests: Always conduct a patch test at least 48 hours before the appointment to check for product sensitivities. Otherwise, you risk an allergic reaction or other adverse effects.
• Using incorrect rod size: Choose the appropriate rod size based on the client's lash length and desired curl since using one that’s too large or small can result in improper curling.
• Inadequate separation: Use a lash comb or separator tool to isolate each lash and evenly coated it with the lifting solution to avoid clumping or uneven results.
• Applying too much or too little solution: Use a precise and even application so the lashes don’t become overly curled or damaged or end up with an entirely inadequate lift.
• Over-processing: Follow the manufacturer's instructions and monitor the processing time carefully to avoid the lashes becoming overly curled or brittle.
• Using outdated or expired products: Always check the expiration dates and store them according to the manufacturer's instructions to ensure they’re safe and effective.
• Neglecting proper aftercare: Provide clients with detailed instructions and emphasize the importance of avoiding water, heat, and oil-based products in the first 24-48 hours to avoid premature fading of the lift or damage to their lashes.

HOW TO RE-LIFT YOUR CLIENT’S LASHES

So you just finished lifting your client’s lashes, and they are not thrilled with the amount of lift they received. If you feel their lash hairs could endure another round of processing without causing severe long-term damage, you can consider re-lifting their lashes. 

Pinpoint why their lashes didn’t fully lift during the initial treatment. Formulate a game plan with your client once you know what could have gone wrong. It’s best to wait at least 48 hours before re-lifting, so re-book your client for a time slot that works for both of you. This waiting period will allow their hair to reform and secure their bonds, ensuring they remain strong.

At the follow-up appointment, process the lashes for only half the time you processed them during the original treatment. To maintain the health and integrity of the hairs, it’s crucial to not re-lift again using the total processing time until an entire lash growth cycle has passed, typically 6-8 weeks.

HOW TO REVERSE A LASH LIFT

Over-curling a client’s lashes can occur if you allow the lifting solution to process for too long or use a lash lift rod or shield that is too small for the length of your lashes. Fortunately, there are steps you can take to help reverse over-curled lashes. 

Assess the Health of the Lashes

Determine whether or not the lashes are in good enough condition to be reversed or relaxed. Always base your decision on the condition of your client’s lashes post-treatment, what your client is most comfortable with, and what will help avoid any long-term damage as much as possible.  

Suppose you or your client decide that reversing the lash lift is not the best option. In that case, you can encourage them to use castor oil or another conditioner twice a day until their lashes have reached a curl they feel comfortable with or until their subsequent treatment. Typically, a lash lift lasts about 6-8 weeks, so schedule your client’s next appointment after this time frame.

Apply the First Solution

When performing a reversal on a previously done lash lift, the first step you’re going to take is to gently brush through the lashes in a downward motion using a mini mascara wand or spoolie with the first solution until you have reached the desired curl. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds to a minute. 

Apply the Second Solution

After allowing the first solution to process for the proper amount of time, begin removing it using a dry applicator or cotton swab. Once you feel you have removed most of the first product, it’s time to perform the same process and timing using the second solution. 

Apply the Moisturizer

After adequately applying and removing the second solution, it’s time to apply the moisturizing solution. This one will stay on the client’s lashes until they can cleanse them using water at least 24 hours after the treatment.

Review Post-Treatment Care

After successfully relaxing or reversing the lashes, you will want to send your client home with some extra moisturizing solution and a clean spoolie or mascara wand. When reviewing lash lift aftercare, explain how to use both items daily to maintain their overall lash health.

We hope that reviewing these steps for re-lifting your client’s lashes or reversing their lash lift can bring you peace of mind. Accidents happen, and we want you to be prepared, so just know that it’s not the end of the world if a lash lift doesn’t turn out as you both hoped. You can salvage any scenario with lots of practice and a cool head.